Richmond in a Day: Suspension Bridges, Sticky Menus, and a Very Good Rooftop

By Diana | Between Chapters

24 Hours in Richmond: Day One (Quirky Hotels, Rocky Rivers, and a Deer Standoff)

I left New Jersey at a very civilized 7:30am, which for me counts as sleeping in. A few coffee stops, one very forgiving stretch of highway with almost no traffic, and I rolled into Richmond just before noon. That's the kind of drive you want before a trip: easy, unbothered, just you and the road doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

My home base was the Quirk Hotel, tucked right on the corner of Broad Street in the Arts District. Quirky, femme, a little flirty. Exactly the kind of hotel I love walking into. I asked about early check-in and got hit with a $30 fee for the privilege. I passed. My legs needed to move after four hours in the car, not sit still in a hotel room. The valet let me leave my bags with the car while I went to go stretch them out, which, small kindness, but it set the tone for the day.

Carytown, On Foot

I hadn't fully thought through the logistics of the day. I was wearing my Birkenstocks. I would go on to walk ten miles in them. Do not do this. My feet filed a formal complaint the next morning.

But I didn't know that yet, so I set off for Carytown, about two miles from the hotel and honestly one of the prettiest walks I didn't expect. Historic homes, houses painted every color you can think of, neighbors who actually say hello. By the time I hit Carytown itself I'd basically gotten a walking tour of the city for free.

Carytown is exactly my speed. Breweries, a mile-long stretch of small locally owned shops, the gorgeous old Byrd Theater anchoring it all. I ducked into a shop called Mongrel and could have stayed an hour. I found a patch of a devil that was nearly identical to a tattoo I already have (a cute devil, not a scary one, I promise) and I am still mad at myself for not buying it. If you know, you know. That's the kind of find you only get once.

The food scene here shocked me a little. Ethiopian, Greek, Thai, Jamaican, all packed into a few blocks. I'd already eaten, so I couldn't take advantage, but if you're a food person, Carytown alone could eat up a full day. I'd hoped to swing back later for a cocktail at Jasper, but by evening my feet had staged a mutiny. Next time.

Check-In, Finally

Back at the Quirk, I checked in for real, dropped my bags, and did the bare minimum freshening up. Day one of a trip is never about looking put together for me. I'm too busy trying not to miss anything.

Belle Isle: An Accidental Beach

I wanted a hike, so I pointed myself toward Belle Isle. On the drive over, something caught my eye through the trees: a rocky stretch of the James River, dotted with people, looking for all the world like a beach. I knew immediately I had to get out there.

Parking was easy to find, and I just followed my GPS to wherever it wanted to take me, which happened to line up with the mileage I was after anyway. The trail runs along a rocky cliffside, with little offshoots where you can scramble around the rocks like it's a playground built by nature. The walk itself isn't the scenic part. The suspension bridge is.

I wasn't prepared for how good that view is. On one side, clear rocky water with the Richmond skyline rising up behind it. On the other, paddleboarders and sunbathers scattered across the rocks like it's the most normal beach day in the world, except it's a river in the middle of a city. Not a strenuous walk at all, even at the tail end of a travel day, and completely worth it.

Maymont and the World's Most Dramatic Baby Deer

Still had daylight left, so I drove over to Maymont. The estate itself is stunning, though tours of the actual house only run on weekends, so I stuck to the grounds. Which, honestly, was plenty: an Italian garden, a Japanese garden, staircases and walkways that demand you actually watch your feet.

The real show, though, was a pair of baby deer taunting each other while mom and dad kept a lazy but watchful eye nearby. I have never been that close to deer in my life. Little spotted troublemakers, completely unbothered by the small crowd of humans watching them bicker. There's a nature center on-site too, for anyone who wants to make more of a stop of it.

Dinner, Take Two

Tired in the best way, I headed back to shower and eat. I'd scoped out a few dinner spots ahead of time, prioritizing vegan options, and had a pretty specific craving I couldn't quite place.

First stop, Lillie Pearl, came highly recommended. I sat at the bar, got handed a sticky menu, and was promptly swarmed by flies. Pretty restaurant, nothing on the menu grabbed me, and the fly situation sealed the deal. One quick drink and I was out.

Second stop, Bar Solita, right across the street from the Quirk, redeemed the evening entirely. Tofu on the menu, a genuinely lovely meal, and a five-second walk home. While I ate, the bartender pointed me toward Penny Lane, a quaint British fish and chip pub, and Triple Crossing, a brewery with a serious reputation. I only walked past both, no energy left to stop, but they're first on the list for next time.

Rooftop, Alone, and Perfectly Fine With It

I ended the night with a nightcap at the Quirk's rooftop bar. Midweek travel means you sometimes get a rooftop entirely to yourself, which is exactly what happened. Great views, good cocktails, and that specific kind of quiet that only comes from being somewhere beautiful with no crowd to share it with.

Then it was lights out in the biggest, coziest, girliest bed I've slept in in a long time.

A quick word on the Quirk: the staff ran a little cold, but everything else made up for it. The lobby is stunning, the rooms are spacious and spotless, the bathroom was perfect, and the shampoo and conditioner left my hair feeling better than it has in ages, which almost never happens with hotel toiletries. My favorite detail: a water station on every floor with your own carafe and glasses, so you're not stuck paying $13 for a bottle of water like it's an airport.

I fell asleep dreaming about murals, cocktails, and rooftops. Not a bad way to end day one.

24 Hours in Richmond: Day Two (Canals, Cemeteries, and a Very Creepy Poet)

I'm an early bird on trips whether I like it or not, so I was up and walking before the city fully woke up. First stop, the Canal Walk, about a mile and a half from the hotel and a genuinely gorgeous route that takes you right past the State Capitol building. The walk itself runs about 1.25 miles, with several access points along the way, so it's less a straight shot and more a choose-your-own-adventure. Mural after mural along the water. I did an out and back and called it good.

Breakfast, Plan B I'd set my sights on 821 Cafe for the vegan options, but they don't open until 9, and 9am might as well be noon to me. I redirected to Village Cafe, open at 8:30, and did not regret it for a second. Homey, mom and pop, full bar, cute little seat-yourself booths. The kind of place that feels like it's been an old town diner forever. Breakfast was excellent, and yes, vegan options here too. Someone at the next table ordered a Bloody Mary that looked incredible. I passed. I'd overserved myself plenty the night before and knew better.

Hollywood Cemetery, Too Briefly Back to the hotel, quick repack, valet called, and I set off for Hollywood Cemetery. I wish, wish, I'd left more time for this place. It is breathtaking. The walk along the James River is stunning on its own, and I stumbled onto a little chapel that opens right up to the water and sky like it was built for exactly that view. I could have sat there for hours.

The cemetery itself rolls through hills and circles (seek out President's Circle if you go), and there are, somehow, an astonishing number of dogs buried there. If you want something active that doesn't require leaving the city, this is it. You can easily rack up miles and real elevation while getting some of the best scenery Richmond has to offer. Next time, I'm blocking out a real chunk of the day for this one.

Stunning Chapel with an even more stunning view

The Poe Museum Last stop on my checklist: the wonderfully creepy Edgar Allan Poe Museum. Plenty of free lot and street parking, which always feels like winning. The museum itself is small but packed with information, artifacts, and exactly the kind of moody history I love. A handful of resident cats roam freely during your visit, which, frankly, is the correct way to run a Poe museum. The audio guide is worth doing, and the grounds themselves are lovely.

Poe had great friends that knew him well and left him what he loved at his grave site

And then, with perfect timing and zero traffic, I pointed the car south for the 4.5 hour drive to my mom's in South Carolina, packing in a full morning of sightseeing before hitting the road. Not a bad way to close out a Richmond chapter before opening a new one.

Highlights of the Trip

Best splurge-that-wasn't: skipping the $30 early check-in fee and walking off travel legs in Carytown instead
Best unexpected find: the suspension bridge at Belle Isle, easily the best view of the whole trip
Best "wait, is that a beach": the rocky river stretch along Belle Isle
Cutest chaos: baby deer bickering at Maymont while their parents supervised from a safe distance
Best redemption arc: Bar Solita, after Lillie Pearl's flies sent me running
Most underrated mini-adventure: the Canal Walk at sunrise, murals and all
Best "I need more time" moment: Hollywood Cemetery, hands down
Best little weird museum: the Poe Museum, cats included

If you want the exact order I'd do all of this in, the timing that actually works, and the extra add-on options for a longer stay, I built it all into a full downloadable 24 Hours in Richmond itinerary. Link below.

🎧 Listening…

I just finished “John of John” on audio (5 stars) and just started and am already LOVING Mad Mabel

🍷 Drinking…

Roof Top Hugo Spritz’s

✈️ Planning…

Local Day trips - NYC broadway show, Cape May, beach? Any other suggestions? Perhaps a bookstore crawl

💛 Recommending…

Take some time for yourself. Spend some time with loved ones. Do the thing that is scary. Tomorrow is never guaranteed

Want the full plan, not just the story? I turned this trip into a 24-hour Richmond itinerary with every stop mapped out: where to stay, where to drink, where to find the books. It's the version of this post you can actually follow. Grab it here.